Caring for hens - part 3 'space'...

Space - the final frontier...

No no no - wrong post...!

Helloo! Please help me be me - I need space to enjoy my life...

Just imagine living with 5 other humans in a room no bigger than the size of a double bed?

It would be a living hell.

A 'life' beyond comprehension.

That's the equivalent that a battery hen (since called 'caged' hen, now I'm hearing 'colony' hen) used to have...

A hen on the old system of intensive battery farming had no larger than the space of an A4 sheet of paper to stand on. No room to stretch, no room to lie and sprawl, no room to turn around easily and no room to flap wings, jump, scratch or indeed, anything else.

Can you imagine being restricted in such a way and also being amongst 5 other beings all restricted too?

This is why hens are 'de-beaked' so that they can't peck, eat and potentially kill each other out of frustration.

If you ever rescue and care for hens who have been farmed intensively in this manner - you will note that some can harbour distinct 'issues' and it's little wonder really, because in cramming them in so tightly, depriving them of any stimulation and natural habitat, their mental wellbeing is severely affected.

So when rescuing and caring for ex-'colony' hens this does need to be taken into consideration. Acres and acres of space may be daunting for them, they may get lost, predated and scared by flock separation. Yet giving them too little space (whilst being perhaps a better life) doesn't allow them room to seek out what some of them crave - which is a little calm and a little privacy.

Yes, everything you read will tell you about the flock mentality and how hens flock together - but chances are that rescued ex-bats won't be from the same cage (sorry collony), they won't know each other. All they will have known is chaos and restriction and being egg 'machines'.

Over the years I've observed that once the flock dynamic has settled down (i.e. a leader established and the entire pecking order in place) just like humans, there will still be hens who look for and actually like, time away from the others. They seek out peace, calm and either a shady spot under a tree (for safety) or a spot in the sun to bathe and feel the warmth on a spread wing.

So it's about balance.

General space requirements:

*** Before you get your hens, first consider how much space you can give them. This will determine the number of hens you can care for safely and properly.***

Safety is paramount. Foxes live in urban areas as much as rural areas and your space criteria must also include looking at how large a safe, enclosed, fox-proof area/run you can create in your garden/backyard?

Ideally then, if you cannot let your hens wander outside of a purpose built run - you should, in my opinion, allow at least 1 meter square per bird.

If, however, you can safely allow your hens a bit more room to roam in your garden / on your land every day, say, for at least an hour - then you could build a fixed secure run with a little less space per hen.

For example, here at 'secret cottage' we have a fixed walk-in run which is approx 5m square and we house 6 hens max in it. The coop we have within the run is suitable for 8 birds. Our garden however, extends to an acre and so we make sure that the hens get to free range very day for at least an hour - or for the entire time we are out in the garden - which is a lot more on many days.

Free to roam safey in our large garden.

This way, we know that they are safe and secure in their run, but not too restricted, yet they can have a good old roam and be really chickeny every day and Mr Fox won't come near because we, and our dogs, are there to deter him.

So that's the overall picture of space needed.

Runs and coops:

In terms of the run that you create, walk-in is by far preferable - no bending to get to them and to carry out daily tasks etc. But if that's not possible, then consider the height of any roof to your run from the hens' point of view. Hens can be larger birds than you think and once they have built up their strength they can actually jump quite high (up to my chest in one case) and will want to perhaps perch on a branch in the run and have a little jump n flap now and then - so 1m high the minimum I'd recommend.

I do not recommend arcs, too narrow, not high enough.

I see many of the arc-style coops and runs in various garden centres / pet stores etc and these are just too small. They are too low for such tall birds and the hens will never be able to fully stratch their wings etc (hens, like dogs, do yoga every day - you will see). I don't know why they persist in selling these runs, as, in my opinion, they are just not fit for purpose.

With regards to a coop that you may buy - be guided by the manufacturer as to how many hens it will house. The numbers always seem quite snug - but in actual fact for the purposes of sleeping, hens don't mind this. In winter it will keep them warm and providing you open any ventialtion in summer you need not worry too much about overheating, as ex-bat hens will have experienced, and survived, a lifetime of hotter temperatures on the farm than they ever will in a British summer outdoors in a coop. I must stress ventialtion is they key though and you need to clean them our regularly.

Creating different and stimulating spaces:

This is of particular importance if you're not able to offer them an intersting field to run around in all day. As I've mentioned above, their individual characteristics also mean that what's good for one hen isn't necessarily good for another, so different little spaces, nooks and crannies are essential to their wellbeing (I will write more on boredom busting in a future post).

Perspex roof, water butt & windbreak on corner.

I find that providing rain cover over at least 5m square of the run is essential (we have the whole of our run covered, as ex-bats don't know about rain and sheltering from it initially, and if they get wet they can easily catch colds  (particularly when sporting very few feathers). Stamping about in mud all day won't be great for them either. The best product we have found is a type of corrogated perspex which we have made a sloping roof from, attached guttering and used it with dual purpose to fill an attached water butt and capture rain water for the garden!

A shady area is also necessary - on hotter summer days (and we can't say we didn't have any of those year!) this is essential so that they can get cool and shade if needed. Chickens can get sunburn on any bold patches and their combs/wattles. A dry and sunny area is also good particularly where you situate their dust bath - to keep it dry and powdery for them.

We have also created a windproof corner as the end of the run bears the brunt of a prevailing wind - again just some sheets of perspex and duct tape. Some of the girls often take shelter here on blustery days.

Shady quiet spot under the coop.

A darker quiet spot has also proved to be popular - some of ours sit and daydream under the coop in the run and also in a snug corner under the nest box at the back.

One of the perching branches in the run.

 A higher spot and vantage point can be created by placing some thick branches in the run - ours use theirs now for looking into the window of our bathroom (which faces out onto the run) and calling to us whenever they see us in there! It's quite nice to be able to see them when I'm having a shower! Giving them perching branches also enables them to climb and play and strengthen up their feet and legs after 18 months of standing still all day.

Location, location, location:

I've had hens at 4 different houses I've lived in now and every time I've been lucky enough to be able to locate their run and coop within view from a window in the house - usually the kitchen. Where we are now I can see them from the bathroom. This is great to do if you can consider it because it means that at whatever the time of day, you can quickly pop to a window and check on them. It's reassuring to see them and also fun to be able to observe them from a distance and in dry weather! (particularly good the first morning after you get your hens and they come out to explore their new home. I guarantee you will watch them for hours!)

Situating them near to your house is also useful if you're locking them in manually at night and need to quickly check and see whether they have all come in to roost. Just a thought... 

So Phil n Kirsty can talk human living space - I can talk hen living space! Now where's that Channel 4 contract?.......

Jane hen having a wonderful dust bath in the veg patch!

Chantal xx

Postscript: Whilst your girls will usually want to comeback to you when you call them in (with a rattle or two of mealworms or corn) hens can, on occasion get broody and hide, or wander off because of their inquisitve natures. Please make sure that your garden/land has a safe boundary that they cannot cross.